Reactions to Big Dogs in South Korea

Here's the paraphrased question:

I would like to move to [Seoul] South Korea in the fall, and I would need to bring my dog with me, as I do not know anyone who can watch her for a year and I am not going to leave her with a stranger. She is a 50 pound mutt (I understand that larger dogs and mutts are not viewed as positively in Korea), though I think she could pass for some sort of imaginary pure breed based on her look. She lives with me in a small apartment now in a city and she is not a barker or high-strung. Is this just a horrible idea (in your opinion)? I have attempted to research this and received mixed feedback from others. Some of the feedback has been quite negative. Would I be setting me and my doggie up for disaster if we moved to Seoul, or are some people just over exaggerating? What could I reasonably expect? Will people be yelling at me multiple times every day when I am out with the dog, or is it not as common an occurrence (a few times a week)?

As you know, the Internet is THE place for people to vent and unleash whatever tirade they choose without having to own up or defend anything. That's why we love it, but you really shouldn't listen to what you read on anonymous forums. Most of the time, they'll be severely biased and, in the case of Korea, they'll almost be exclusively biased. Even in the case of big dogs, you're certain to find a handful of expats using a simple question like "Where can I buy a big dog?" as a chance to rail into Koreans for their preference for toy dogs, dog meat, xenophobia and a laundry list of other typical expat complaints. Rob has a good write-up about why expats in Korea complain so much. Make sure you check that out.

I would never be able to suggest that someone should separate from their dog. No way! That would be a horrible experience with both of you being miserable. Bring your dog. You'll be much happier as both of you would be adjusting together. However, you and your dog must be ready for a few changes.

Korea, and especially Seoul, is a tight, cramped place with high population density and overly crowded streets. If you're in a location with a lot of foot traffic, walking your dog is going to be an interesting experience. To truly understand public perception of dogs, we must first look at what Koreans view as pets. Koreans are not that pet-friendly to start with. Some of them have hamsters, fish or cats, but it is not a majority. Not even close. As for dogs, any non-toy dog is essentially not a pet. Rather, they are animals that live on the farm or in the country side. You will see a few here and there, but the idea is that big dogs are not cute or stuffed animal-like, so why have them? With apartments the size they are and easy access to outdoors areas limited, having a big dog in Seoul is overwhelmingly uncommon. I say that, but it doesn't mean you and your dog will be screamed at or chastised. Let me offer this story.

I have a puppy. He's a brown jindo-lab mutt that looks totally harmless and acts just as any other puppy would. He's curious, chases birds in the park, eats shoes and wants to play with everyone. When I take him out to go to the bathroom and am patiently waiting for him to squeeze out a few drops or drop a nice one, many people walk by -young women, old men, students, you name it and they pass by without so much as a glance. I have even had a few kids at the park run so fast when seeing my PUPPY that you would think a wolf was chasing them. Most of the time, the initial reaction is to fear it. That's right. My little three month old puppy strikes fear in the heart of some Koreans. But why? Well, since Koreans only have toy dogs, they only know how those breeds react to humans. A big dog is viewed just the same as a small unknown breed: with suspicion. Sure, a bigger one might scare them a little more, but it has more to do with unpredictability rather than size. Fear of the unknown, right?

When I walk my dog, most people look at him with interest, but they always keep a safe distance. Rarely will I have people walk up and pet him. This, however, is more of a blessing than you might think. If your dog was being pet by every person, she would start becoming more irritable on the walks, get less exercise and, of course, you would hate walking her because it would take much longer than usual.

I don't think you have decided on where in Seoul to live yet, but staying away from busy areas (Gangnam, Apgujeong, Jungno, Hongdae, Itaewon) might be a wise decision. Furthermore, heading to an area with easy-access to mountains, water or a park would enhance you and your dog's enjoyment while here. I'd be happy to recommend where some good, more natural locations are if you would like. Let me know.

To wrap it up, bring your dog. Both of you would be miserable without the other, so there's no reason to even consider that. Koreans might do a double-take and will even take a few steps out of the way to avoid crossing paths with you two, but there will be no screaming. Keep him on a leash and as long as he's not barking, destroying your apartment or biting the people he does happen to encounter, then you two will have a great time in Korea.

Here's a podcast on the subject.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Soccer (Football) Games and Clubs in Seoul, South Korea

Here's the question:

I'm moving to Suwon soon and was wondering if there was any teams in the local Seoul leagues who needed players? I'll be living in Suwon but
am used to travelling for at least an hour to play football in Manchester back home, so if there are any teams in the Seoul area I would love to
know.

"Some Dude"

Another sports question, huh? I did cover a little on sports in the Seoul area here, but I didn't mention soccer clubs. There are tons of expat soccer players and a lot of clubs out there. You could take a look at Seoul Saturday Soccer League or Expat-Advisory's list of Korea-based teams, but none of them are as well-organized as the Seoul Sunday Football League. These guys have schedules, tournaments, standings and just about anything else you would want. It's also got a nice forum filled with great information.

Judging by how official looking some of those sites are, I can only assume that they're pretty competitive, so those of you looking for a friendly or casual game might be dissuaded to join. For those of you looking for a more casual pickup game, check out some of these facebook groups. Each one of them are different pickup games....

* Sunday Pickup Games in Seoul
* Monday night games in Seoul
* Tuesday night games in Seoul
* Wednesday night games in Seoul
* Thursday night games in Seoul
* Indoor games

All of the above links and groups are active and play 5-a-side.

I think that should just about cover it for you. There appears to be a pretty dedicate group that goes out there and if, for some reason, you can't join of those teams, I would suggest that you either do as OpenMicah suggested and talk to your school or you could just go out there and see if you can get in on the fun.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Namyangju, South Korea: Nature Lovers Paradise

Here's the question (or request in this case):

I'm interested in finding out where things [in Namyangju] are (cool must see sites..artifacts...historic locations...traditional South Korean
outfits.....western foods....other than junk food....Mcdonalds....maybe even a
supermarket). I'm trying find my way around.....and figure out who the potential
good friends are.

Namyangju is located just northeast of Seoul in Gyeonggi province. It's also conveniently nestled right next to Guri which is pleasant city full of great things to do, but let me focus on Namyangju.

Namyangju is pretty large and since I don't know where in the city you live , I'm going to have to use the marker that Google Earth provided. As you can see you're pretty far outside Seoul, but close enough that traveling to the city on a weekend wouldn't be a big deal at all. It's only 30 minutes to Dogok station. That being said, there's plenty to do and see in your area that traveling to Seoul isn't even necessary outside of the occasional urge for non-Western international food.

As I often do, let's start with nature in your area and I'd like to point out that you picked a wonderful area for such escapes. The most famous recreation area in Namyangju is the Natural Recreation Forest at Mountain Chungryeong. It's full of great landscape, dense forests and beautiful valleys. The park also has forestry fields, sports facilities, pools, camping grounds, nature observation areas, and is a great place for both relaxing family vacations or a mountain hike. If you're into that sort of thing and want to book a cabin or reserve a camping ground, call 031-592-0681. I called them and found an English speaker there as well.

Gwangneung Forest is also located in the area. This place is the best natural forest in Korea because of its "treasury of mountains and forests, as well as a fascinating mix of animals and plant species. The Gwangneung forest, has a total of 841 different sorts of plants settling in the forest with 75 families and 244 species of vertebrates which include 19 kinds designated as the precious natural treasure and 22 kinds designated as the rare animal. Among all of the birds living in the forest, the most famous is the Korean redheaded woodpecker."


I called them at (031)540-1114, but did not find any English speakers there. Also, they appear to be closed on Sundays. Still, it looks nice.

You can also check out Mt. Chuknyeongsan Recreation Forest.

Besides those spots there's also a ton of other neat places are sure to keep you busy for many, many weekends. You've got Mt. Cheonmasan, Mt.Ungilsan [Sujongsa Temple] and Mt. Suraksan for some hiking. There's Bukhangang River where you can hike, pincic and do some water skiing. There's also an annual festival that features crafts, music and other cultural festivities.

While on the topic of skiing, you can hit the slopes in the winter months at Mt.Cheonmasan Ski Resort and Seoul Resort. For rental fees, check this out.

The major tourist attractions are Gwangreung Royal Tomb, Hongreung Royal Tomb, Yureung Royal Tomb, Sareung Royal Tomb, Paldang Resort Complex, Studio Complex, Bamseomdo Island, and Moran Art Gallery. You can also check out the Mongolian Cultural Village.

For all other tourism related info check out Gyeonggi's tourist site, Namyangju's site and even Guri's site. I'd spend some serious time on the Namjangju site though. It's loaded with solid info. In case I forgot anything, take a peek at this site as well.

Now, on to the other stuff...western niceties. One of the only challenges you'll face living outside of Seoul might be the inconvenience of getting food that you want when you want it. As you get used to Korean food, you'll slowly assimilate and your taste buds will change, but when you're really hungry, sometimes Korean food just doesn't cut it.

So, what are your options? Let's start with Costco. Depending on your location in Namyangju, there is a Costco relatively close to you. Here's a bigger picture.



You'll have to pay 35,000 won for a one year membership and then you'll be fine on at least some aspects of western cuisine at home. For restaurants, I would take a look here. There seems to be a pretty good amount of eateries for you. There appears to be one western bar called Oddysee Bar. I don't know anything about it though.

As far as making good friends, I would suggest you get out there and start traveling. Check into Adventure Korea. They're always up to something.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Bundang, South Korea: Living and Thriving

Here's the question:

I am arriving in Bundang a week from tomorrow and would like a little more information on the city before I get there. From the research I have conducted myself, it looks like the perfect place for me, but I would love to hear more about it, so I can share the info with my friends and family.

Thank you,
Heather

When moving to a suburb of Seoul, I always think it's smart to take a look at where you might be living in relation to the city, so let's start there.

Here's a google map. (Click here for an interactive road map)

As you can see, it's southeast of Seoul. It's also connected to Gangnam-gu via the Bundang Line. Aside from the newer and constantly-expanding subway line, there are buses that conveniently service the area as well. Expect both to take around 20-30 min to get into Seoul.

Also, the Airport Limousine can be found near Seohyeon and Ori Stations. From there you can get a ride to Incheon Airport for about 12,000 won.

The subway closest to your school appears to be Seohyeon Station.



For Seoul nightlife (restaurants, bars/clubs, shopping) you can get from Seohyeon to Gangnam Station in 40 min; Itaewon in 66 min; Apgujeong in 51 min; and Hongdae in 74 min. If you want to check out transportation all over Korea, then take a look at this Korea Sparkling page or if you want to play with Seoul subway travel times then click here. For a quick list of restaurants, shopping and night spots you can visit Seoul Style.

Of course, you'll be living in Bundang, so let's take a look at what it has to offer. Like Ilsan, it's a well-planned city. Parks, schools, malls, restaurants, golf courses and modern buildings have been woven together to make a clean, safe and attractive city.


I always like to point out parks in the area and Bundang has plenty of small and big ones. Most would say that Bundang Central Park is the nicest and I would probably agree. It's got the basics like most Korean parks: a pond, some sports fields or courts, a place to exercise and some trees. It also has a bungee jumping site. It's a great place to go on a Saturday afternoon with friends. If you're into a biking or walking, try taking a little cruise next to the Tancheon tributary. There are also five water parks along the Tancheon if you're into that. If you're the really adventurous type, you can follow it all the way to Yongin and check out their folk village. If you're into nature or hiking, then take a look at this site to get some ideas. I would seriously recommend several weekend day-hikes. The other parks are smaller, but all of them offer some sort of break from the concrete jungles that envelop the city.

As I mentioned in the post about Ilsan, it's always nice to know where you can get some western food at restaurants, but having a strong base of western flavors and groceries at home is always crucial. Here's a map with the closest Costco from your school. It would take about 25 - 30 min on a bus.



Most of the dining action and a wide variety of drinking establishments can be found around every subway station. Seohyeon and Jeongja stations are good places to start, with the majority of "Western Bars" being at Seohyeon station in the shopping corridors directly outside of Samsung Plaza's two main entrances. You can check out Monkey Beach, Dublin Bar, and Lose Control for starters, but there are plenty more dives in the area. You're also pretty close to a major Korean theme park, Everland, which in located in Yongin.

Overall, you can expect to find a nice, cozy city full of moderately wealthy Koreans and a tight-knit expat community. Like most people, you'll be totally happy in Bundang. I have been to Bundang several times and have never had a bad time. My wife's family lives down there as well and am always up for a quick cruise south. Enjoy!

If you want to see more pictures of Bundang click here and here or for a ton of Bundang-related blogs, click here.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Seoul or Suburb?

One of the first challenges that prospective teachers and expats have is choosing their location. Should they head to Seoul or maybe just one of its suburbs? What about Busan or Daegu? Are the smaller towns worth it or even manageable? All of these concerns are very valid and let me offer some advice.

Seoul is the center of modern Korea. For the new expat, it's one of the easiest places to assimilate as it is full of Western niceties and conveniences. That said, it should be noted that the other cities are full of wonderful quirks and charm. While all of the cities are Korean, each offers a unique Korean experience.

Still, you need to know what you want and what awaits you when you arrive on the peninsula.

Seoul or Suburb?

This is one of the threads that has been going on over at the ESL Teachers group site.

Are the suburbs of Seoul cheaper than Seoul itself? I'm just looking for a city that is close enough to Seoul where I can be there in 30 min or under...

First of all, let's identify the major suburbs of Seoul, most of which are in Gyeonggi province.

Suwon
Ansan
Anyang
Bucheon
Bundang
Gimpo
Goyang
Guri
Gwacheon
Gwangmyeong
Hanam
Namyangju
Paju
Seongnam
Siheung
Uijeongbu
Uiwang
Yangju
Yongin

All of these places are connected to Seoul by either a train or bus and usually takes anywhere from fifteen minutes to an hour to get to the city, but that doesn't mean you will always be traveling to the city. Most of the suburbs of Seoul have been affected by the megalopolis and have experienced mini-booms that brought many of the big-city conveniences to each town.

Suwon seems to be the most popular suburb within the expat community. It's close to Seoul (45 min), has great public transportation and is noticeably cleaner than the capitol.

The other suburb cities are all very nice and I can research them for you if you'd like.

Is Seoul more expensive than the suburbs?

Some people are under the impression that Seoul, like most big cities, is very expensive. That's partly true. Seoul can be more expensive (housing, shopping, etc...), but isn't necessarily that way. It all depends on what you spend your money on. If you like to drink at bars and clubs, then it most certainly will cost you more. However, if you like to drink at a restaurant or hof, then your bill will be identical. The same goes for groceries. If you like organics then you're going to spend more. Your lifestyle will dictate your expenses.

The only difference is that in a suburb, there are less things to be tempted by. For example, I used to live by a Subway (the sandwich shop) and would eat there a couple times a week. I really appreciated its convenience when I first arrived here, but it was pricey. I was dropping over 20 bucks a week at Subway just because it was there. If it wasn't, I'm sure I would have been eating some Korean food which, of course, is much cheaper.

One more example: I used to live in Daechi-dong which is a predominately residential area in Gangnam-gu. It was a great area to live in. It was quiet, comfortable and close to Coex. Even though it was a residential area with only one bar, I managed to spend loads of money on booze. Now, I live on the main street in Gangnam and am totally surrounded by bars and restaurants, yet I only spend a fraction of what I used to. The bottom line is that the cost is not that different and if you are concerned about money then altering your behavior is more efficient than trying to flee to the suburbs.

What about food?

While it might not seem like it's that big of a deal at first, after awhile you will miss Western food and you will seek it out. This is easy in Seoul, but can be a little tricky in the suburbs. It's there, but chances are that a fast-food chain or chicken hof might be all you come up with.

Is Seoul too crowded?

Yes. Seoul is way too crowded, but than again, all of Gyeonggi is crowded. Over 10,000,000 people live in the province and if you add Seoul in there, you've got over 24,000,000 million people living essentially shoulder to shoulder. If you don't like crowds, I would suggest you stay about from Seoul.

In the end, it's all about preference. Seoul has a lot of cultural icons and events to offer, but that doesn't mean the other cities don't have anything unique or worthwhile. If you prefer a slightly slower lifestyle, then take a look at the suburbs. They are close to mountains, trains and boast cleaner air and streets. You might encounter a few issues assimilating, but you're so close to the city that most problems can be rectified without much stress.

Would I recommend a suburb?

Yes.