Libraries in South Korea

Here's the (revisited) question:

My husband and are avid readers but do not want to spend money on new or used books. We have had some trouble finding a library where we can actually check the books out. Apparently you have to stay on the library grounds to read books at the National Library of Korea. Do you know of a library (preferably near Gangnam) that has a wide selection, or any for that matter, of English books that we could actually check out?

Since this question was asked, I have stumbled across some new information. First of all, the Herald had a good piece on libraries that should help people out. Chris in South Korea continues to do a great job and stopped by the Jeongdok Public Library this week. He also linked a 10 Magazine article about libraries across the peninsula. I think that should give everyone an idea about what's going on.

Art Museums, Stores, Groups and Supplies in Seoul

Here's the question:

Where can I find a comprehensive listing of all things related to art in Seoul? That includes art supply stores, foreigner friendly art groups, regular art groups, shared work spaces, co-ops, galleries and museums.

I can readily help with some of this, but there are a couple I'm not certain about. First of all, art museums and galleries can be found on Korea's tourism site which is getting batter and better. Also, make sure to stop by Korea4Expats which is becoming so damn good these days.

Art Supply Stores

• Insadong
• Alpha Art Supply (Namdaemun and Lotte Dept. Store in Jamsil)
• Morning Glory
• Homi Art Store (Hongdae and Gangnam)
• Linko's
• Art Box (Seohyun)

Art-Related Groups

• Seoul Art Collective
• Seoul Art Guide on Twitter
• Seoul Arts Club
• English Fine Arts Class in Seoul

I think that just about covers all the basics of what I can get a hold of. I would recommend getting touch with some of the members of those groups or even stopping by one of the stores and seeing if they have an additional information. If any readers know anything else about the scene, please add it in the comments.

How bad is the pollution in Seoul?

Here's the question:

In your personal opinion, how bad is the air pollution in Seoul? Sometimes I wonder if the pollution is overblown by expats from Canada or other areas where pollution is minimal. I am from a fairly large metropolitan area (Philly/Baltimore/DC)and just hope that some of these on-line opinions I read are just overblown compared to other areas that are quite polluted.

I like this question because it asks for my personal opinion. Seoul isn't particularly clean, but it is improving. The comments you read online could come from genuine posters or runners, bikers and other outdoor sports enthusiasts, but from experience on my ESL Teacher group over on Facebook, most of the comments are from expats and teachers who like to bash Seoul and Seoulites.

I remember reading about how I would become asthmatic after a few months in Seoul and would be ill most of the time. Not only have I not developed asthma, but I also am ill about a fraction of the amount I was in the US. You should ignore most comments and just look at the facts. Seoul is not on any "Most Polluted" lists that I can find. Seoul does not have factories or any other industry which produces a lot of air pollution. Seoul simply has too many damn drivers. If you're a little more into stats and comparative studies then perhaps a Google search would be best. You'll find all you need to know about the current state of air quality and pollution in Seoul. This picture, however, is something that I have never seen in Seoul.



I know a few cyclists who really had a hard time getting in a solid exercise out of fear of inhaling exhaust and fumes. Seoul has an excellent public transportation system, but still has way too many cars. They're trying to get people to ride bikes more and even have an alternating-day driving program to reduce congestion and pollution, but the smog can get pretty thick on hot summer days.

If you live in a busy city-center, then expect some pollution, but Seoul is not significantly worse than other major world cities. In fact, Seoul has less particulate matter in the air than Busan and Daegu. You mentioned that you're from the DC area and from what I can tell, DC produces more air pollution than Seoul. The time of year also must be considered. Of course, you'll be in Korea for a minimum of a year, but since the winter months experience the greatest increase in pollution, the cold weather usually deters people from spending extended amounts of time on the streets.

I guess the main point is that pollution is a problem of course, but it depends on your lifestyle as to whether or not you let it become an issue for you. If you are a runner, then I suggest you get up early in the morning and beat the cars. If you are a cyclist, then stick to some of the rural trails. If you love the smell of grass and trees, then perhaps Seoul shouldn't be on your list. You are a gym dude, then it won't be a problem. And don't forget that you can always go the mask route...



Anybody developed any illnesses or conditions as a result of the pollution?

English-Speaking Dentists in South Korea

Here's the question:

I have a cavity and it hurts! I need to see a dentist asap. There is a dentist in the building where I teach but he speaks no English (maybe a little, but not enough). I am anal about my teeth and would feel so much more comfortable if I could see a dentist that I could understand. Help?

I live in the Gangnam-gu area (near Daechi & Samseong station & Coex), I don't mind a short travel if necessary.

Many people are concerned about dentists in Korea. I've had some pretty rough cleanings during my time here, but have found a few trustworthy ones. Language became a huge concern for me after the the first guy I went to only understood "ouch" and I think that was about it. I now go to Chicago dental clinic in Gangnam, but since you're closer to COEX you should visit Tufts Dental.

From Samseong station ; Take Exit 5 , continue to walk down the road about 5 minutes, pass straight through an underground crosswalk at POSCO intersection, walk a couple more buildings passing by a Starbucks coffee store& Fed-ex, and look for 437 Teheran-ro. We are on the 3rd floor.

I think that should work well for you and since you can make an appointment online, I can't foresee any problems with them. For those of you curious about other English-speaking dentists in Korea, make sure to check out Galbijim's entry on the subject.

Gay Saunas in South Korea

Here's the question:

I was told about these saunas that are like bathhouses and apparently they are everywhere in Korea. [I was told] HOT guys shower together, and rub each other in the shower. Is this true? How far EXACTLY do they go?

What's the type of legality on this, and as a foreigner with a large carriage, can I participate?

I remember reading about these places before coming to Korea and in my handbook, it referred to them as "bathhouses". Of course, bathhouses in the West are known for their popularity among gay/bi/curious cruisers, so I was a bit confused. In fact, if you type "bathhouses" into Google, the first result is a Wikipedia article on Gay Bathhouses. For the most part, the bathhouses, saunas or Jjimjilbang in Korea are, for the most part NOT cruising sites and certainly wouldn't be friendly to someone who tried to make them that way. I recommend reading Galbijims write-up on these saunas. It'll help you get a good feel for what's actually going on in these widely popular establishments.

I am not the biggest fan of the saunas in Korea. First of all, I don't like being hot for any period of time and throw that in with the high level of interest that foreign men (I can't speak for women) get when they enter these facilities, it makes for more stress than relief. However, I have a lot of friends who really enjoy it. In my experience, an overwhelming majority of the men in the saunas are older. Maybe it was the location I chose, but I didn't see many "hot guys" in there. Even if there were, it wouldn't make a difference. Cleanliness and relaxation are the goals, not sex or rubbernecking.

In fact, these places are viewed in such a non-sexual light that there was a recent television commercial innocently showing toddlers washing each other in what was supposed to be a public shower. I was shocked when I first saw it, but my Korean wife didn't think there was anything odd about it. She thought it was cute. There's also a popular Korean comedy show which takes place in a sauna. They sing, dance and play games.

There are some things that happen in Korea (just like any country) that simply don't make sense to me, but makes perfect sense to Koreans. A couple years ago, a few Korean friends and I were at a park and we saw two teenage boys massaging and rubbing each other. I assumed that they were gay and made a comment about it. My friends rejected my interpretation and claimed that the boys were helping each other relieve stress because high-school life in Korea can be very demanding. It doesn't matter why they were doing it though. The point was that many Koreans, unlike myself -an American, don't automatically assume that something is sexual or related to sexuality.

Take this for instance: I know many Koreans who semi-regularly visit the saunas with their parents and/or children and all of them routinely wash each others backs. When I first heard of people doing this, I was a little grossed out. I mean, imagining myself in such a situation with my father is almost enough to cause nausea, but it is viewed as a perfectly normal and perhaps even a bonding experience among our Korean brethren.

So, by all means go and enjoy the many saunas of the nation, but understand that nearly all of them have zero tolerance for sexual activity. If you start rubbing another man for any reason other than cleaning, I imagine a fist might be coming your way. I do think it would be a funny dare though.

Still, there are some places where you can go if you're looking for a place to cruise or find a little action. The highest concentration of LGBT bars and clubs reside in Jongno, Hongdae and Itaewon, so the gay saunas tend to be in and around those districts. Utopia Asia has a lot of information on gay culture and hotspots in Korea and they have an interesting page on gay saunas as well. Make sure to take a look at what it has to offer, but I want to use a couple comments from the site.

"Went to Mun Hwa last Sat nite around 1:30am...Man, it was full. It's a good place for people who are into older men of 30+...I had a good time. Just lie down and guys will be on you in no time. They don't play safe, so carry lube and condoms...The sauna was filthy and so were the toilets."

...and...

"If you enter Bosuk, you will feel like you are in a regular straight sauna, and it probably is...until you go to the sleeping area. You will get to see some action, although quite discreet. Normally at the 1/F sleeping area or in the hidden corner on 2/F. Just lay down and pretty soon someone will lay next to you, although I don't see how things can go far here as there are many straight people sleeping as well! BTW, no foreigners here, so you can get very spotlighted."

Two totally different takes on the scene. I'm sure after visiting a few places, one would understand the system a little bit more, but what it sounds like is that very few of the places are advertised as "Gay Saunas". As the other posters on that site mentioned, you must be discreet since there is a mix of straight men sleeping and gay/bi men cruising. You might be able to find a place with private rooms, but I think most places are going to offer public sleeping rooms which are frequently checked by staff. Again, South Korea does not have any laws against homosexuality (aside from military service), so the staff is not looking for criminals. They're just trying to keep their sauna from becoming a hotspot for such activity.

I also found it interesting that so many people claimed that Korean men didn't carry or use protection. For a nation that spends a lot of time telling its people that foreigners have AIDS, I would think that having unprotected sex in bathhouses with foreigners would be unheard of. Then again, contraception in Korea is an interesting topic unto itself.

So, ultimately, you are not going to be walking into a shower or sauna full of young, "hot guys". From what most of the comments over at Utopia said, you'll most likely be walking into a dark, quiet sleeping room full of older men that may or may not be willing to give a big foreigner a chance. Now, I'm sure there are some hidden places in Itaewon that will work just fine for you, but I think it's better to paint the sauna scene is Korea as a very non-sexual one that is for cleaning and relaxing, rather than romance and cruising.

Like my last post on gay behavior in Korea, I hope that some readers might be able to add their thoughts. They were quite valuable last time.

Some Tips on Public Schools in and around Seoul

Here's the question:

After doing a reasonable amount of research, I would be much more comfortable working for a public school rather than a hagwon for my first experience teaching in Korea. This being said, I recall reading on your blog that public schools have big hiring bonanzas in September and in March. As September is rapidly approaching, I wonder, is it at the beginning of September or later in the month? Would I still have time to possibly find a position in Seoul? Also, I've been advised to contact schools directly in order to seek employment in Seoul, as recruiters have tried to steer me away. Will the school assist at all in the moving/ apartment process or will I be doing a great deal more work and have increased my responsibility/stress load considerably making this decision? Any guidance is greatly appreciated

.

Many people come to that very same conclusion. Even though the pay tends to be slightly lower, public schools offer more oversight, job security and vacation time. I have worked in both public schools and hagwons and usually recommend that first-year teachers consider the public route. There are many reasons and aside from the three that I mentioned above, working in a public school will pretty much protect you from the potential wrath of bad directors, overbearing mothers and long work hours. There are some good aspects of hagwon education, but that is not for today.

Semesters start in March and September here in South Korea, so public school system usually starting their hiring drive as early as December or May, respectively. Right now it's right in the middle of July (yesterday was actually Cho-bok or the official day to eat dog -it's not all that common these days though), so that means that any of you who have get busy and start applying. However, there is a new catch. If you want to teach in Seoul city schools, you've got to be more qualified than in the past. From the EPIK website:

Please note that Seoul positions require at least level 2 qualification (an ESL certification, a Master's in any discipline, a minimum of one year teaching or a Bachelor's degree in Education, English or Linguistics.

On top of the tougher guidelines, you also must submit your information via email (epik@korea.kr). You'll need to include the official "Seoul Application Form downloaded from the EPIK website, as well as a cover letter, resume, two open references and two-page sample lesson plan." That's a lot of information and if you really want to do it AND meet the minimum qualifications, then you've better get busy because in order to get the visa issuance and participate in the orientation, they recommend that you have everything submitted by mid-July. Get cracking.

That's for Seoul and since the ESL industry is no longer the teachers market it once was, the competition to land a good job in a Seoul public school has become quite stiff for first-year teachers. Additionally, just because you meet the requirements, that doesn't mean you'll be hired and it definitely doesn't mean you'll be placed in a part of the city you want. School placement is based on a lottery that happens much closer to the start of the semester.

I know that many potential teachers don't have all or any of the needed qualifications. I certainly didn't. So what do you do if you really want to teach in Seoul city public school, but can't? Well, if you're set on being in a public school setting and don't qualify for Seoul or missed the deadline, then I'd have to suggest you shoot for a public school in Gyeonggi-do. Gyeonggi province surrounds Seoul and offers many of the same big-city luxuries without the congestion. Gyeonggi English Program in Korea or GEPIK. All you need to teach for GEPIK is your BA and native citizenship. You also have a little more time to submit your info as they give you until the end of July to submit all of your stuff. (For information on applying with GEPIK, click here.)

If anyone is curious about teaching in a public school outside of Seoul/Gyeonggi area (which is equally great), then email me and I'll write something up for you.

Apartment procurement and moving expenses will be paid for by the school district and all you will have to do is show up at the airport with luggage and an open mind. Don't worry about that.

You mentioned applying to schools directly. I talked about this on a podcast in reference to second year teachers as well as on a post about non-Caucasians securing employment. Applying directly is a great way to do it as it cuts recruiters out of the loop. However, when applying directly you must accept that your job-pool is severely limited. Public schools do not hire directly and most non-adult hagwons don't have websites with the option of applying online. So you have to dig. I'm currently working on a list of schools that allow direct or online application submission and will have it posted in the next couple days.

"What Sub" Beer and Liquor Bar in Gangnam

Here's the question:

How exactly do you get to What Sub? I know where Castle Praha is since it's on the main street but those little side streets are so confusing.

I've actually gotten three questions about "What Sub" since my failed attempt to convince a fellow expat to give Korea a chance before running back home. Managing the side streets of Gangnam is a pain. Everything looks the same and after a few drinks, patience for searching usually runs thin pretty quickly. I remember a couple years ago we were searching for "Woodstock 2" and ended up spending over an hour walking in circles on the same two roads. We never found it either. That doesn't need to happen and since I live in the area, I can offer simple directions to "What Sub".



Looks hard, right. All you gotta do is walk out Gangnam Station exit 7. Go straight until you reach the McDonald's and City Theatre on your right. Just past McDonald's there's a small road that runs into the main drag. Walk up the hill. You'll reach a small side road running parallel to the main road. Cross it and keep walking up the hill. Once you cross that little road, start looking up and to your right. "What Sub" is about the 4th building on your right.



Once you see the building, the door is on the right.



The bar is on the third floor. Enjoy!

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

How to Make your stay in Korea a little better...

Here's the question:

I think I can narrow down my request to a simple topic, but I feel like I'm in more need of a pep talk than anything else. I have been in Seoul for 3 1/2 weeks now and I am trying to get adjusted. The hagwon that I work for just notified us that they will be closing in three weeks, but we might be merging with a larger hagwon, Avalon. I'm still waiting to hear the final details, but in the meantime, I am debating what I should do.

I have been told that the first couple of months are the toughest. I came from a large social circle at home so coming here and knowing nary a soul has been a challenge. Do you have any recommendations on social meetings/gatherings or websites that can point me in the right direction (to meet people)? I really don't want to give up on Seoul just yet, but I can see myself going home in three weeks if I can't find a reason to stay. As it is, if the school does merge with Avalon, I will be out of work for 3 weeks while they remodel and I won't really begin teaching for another month after that. My pay will be cut in half while the school is closed and I'm not sure if it's worth it.

I know you can't make my decision for me. I'm pretty much reaching out. However, if you know any good meetup websites, I would appreciate the information.

Thank you,
K

Adjusting to a new country is never easy. As you said, the first few months can be the hardest as well. Let's look at the phases of culture shock and see if we can figure out where you might be.

Honeymoon Phase - During this period the differences between the old and new culture are seen in a romantic light, wonderful and new. For example, in moving to a new country, an individual might love the new foods, the pace of the life, the people's habits, the buildings and so on.

Negotiation Phase - After some time (usually weeks), differences between the old and new culture become apparent and may create anxiety. One may long for food the way it is prepared in one's native country, may find the pace of life too fast or slow, may find the people's habits annoying, disgusting, and irritating etc. This phase is often marked by mood swings caused by minor issues or without apparent reason. Depression is not uncommon.

Adjustment Phase - Again, after some time (usually 6 – 12 months), one grows accustomed to the new culture and develops routines. One knows what to expect in most situations and the host country no longer feels all that new. One becomes concerned with basic living again, and things become more "normal".

It looks like you're already in the second phase which of course, is the hard one. You mentioned that your work is proving to be a little unsteady as well and that makes an already difficult situation even harder. So, let me offer a little advice.

While you are here to work and make money, I assume that working was not the real reason you decided to come abroad. You need to rediscover that feeling you had before coming to Korea and the best way to do that is to ignore work. Ignore it. Do a good job while you're there, but don't treat it as if it were your career. It's probably not anyways. Work life in Korea is never smooth and trying to make it that way consumes way too much time and often proves to be fruitless.

You sent me a second email as well.

I just left the restaurant business after 14 years so I do like going out for a drink and I also love music and dancing. I have a deep interest in history, so cultural outings always intrigue me and I am always open to new experiences. I love to travel, so seeing more of Seoul and the surrounding areas is a priority.

Let's take this one interest at a time. You were in the restaurant business for over a decade, so I think you need to go with that. There are numerous food blogs that cover some really neat restaurants in the area. Make it a point to try and check a few places out every week.

* Seoul Eats is arguably the best food blog in the K-blogosphere and is regularly updated with new pics, restaurants and reviews.

* Fat Man Seoul
* Zen Kimchi
* Seoul Style
* The Korean Vegan

Those are in no way all of the food sites though. If you click on any of the above links, they will have several resources linked on their sites as well. You also mentioned you like going for drinks. Well, I don't really have to go into detail on that front since Koreans are heavy drinkers and the prevalence of hofs and bars attests to that, but where to go is another question.

You mentioned that you lived in Seocho, so you're just south of the River. Most of the high-traffic establishments are to the north, but you have options nearby.

Gangnam/Apgujeong

Besides all the great restaurants in the area, there are some great bars as well. Personally, I like four or five bars in the area. In the Gangnam area, I prefer a small dive called "What Sub". It's a Korean bar, mostly frequented by Koreans, but the drinks are cheap (2 dollar shots) and the atmosphere is relaxed. There are also two bars called Woodstock in the area. The main Woodstock or "Woodstock 1" is smaller, more popular and heavily frequented by English teachers. They offer good music (It's a request system, so it can get bad), but the prices have gone up a lot (2000cc for 13,000 won). Woodstock 2 is a quieter, basement bar that sells mostly beer (sometimes they have Jager) and plays exclusively classic rock. There's also Castle Praha. I like this place because it's huge and you can get non-Korean beer. Here's a map.



In Apgujeong, I would recommend Monkey Beach. Cheap drinks, nice people and it even has a nightly fire show. I assume you know the other party areas of Seoul like Itaewon and Hongdae, so aside from a link, I shouldn't have to go into detail.

You mentioned you like dancing and music. Dancing can be found at just about any place in the city, but good live music is sometimes a stretch. I have written about this before and have tried to come up with a pretty comprehensive list of where you can find some good music. It depends on taste though. Drop by Expat-Advisory as well. They've got a lot of good stuff up there for you.

You mention history as well. Well, Seoul has a bunch of really great museums, not to mention a ton of historical sites throughout the city. I always suggest that people new to Korea go and pick up Michael Breen's book "The Koreans". Not only is it a fun read, but it also delves into a little history which is something you would like. You can find it at Kyobo Bookstore and just about all of the other ones.

Your next interest is where I will really be able to give some advice. You like to travel. That's perfect and is the best way to meet people. I should offer the official Korea Sparkling site for some ideas, but the real place to meet some good people who are in need to something more than the late-night benders is at Adventure Korea. They take great trips year around and give people the chance to make close friends. I always point people in their direction because everyone always finds something there. If you're into travel, then this is something you should jump on. Also, Ask Now is organizing a huge group of people for this years Mud Festival. That's something you should consider as well.

In the end, most people get frustrated in a new country because they haven't made any solid friends and they miss that connection. It's totally normal. There are endless social groups and organizations out there and all it takes is a little effort.

Fellow K-Blogger, Roboseyo, also offers some advice on "How to love the heck out of Korea." He's a little sugary, but sometimes that's what we need.

For my personal advice, don't give up yet. You came here for an experience and I know you would be letting yourself down if you gave up this early. There is so much amazing history, culture and natural beauty to see on the peninsula and so little time to see it all. You need to get out, break down any barriers you have set around yourself and be free. This is your year to rediscover what you love about life. Don't let the stress of work get in your way. You're not here to work and sleep, so don't let that happen. Contact Adventure Korea, go to a museum, dance to the music and just let it go. Very few people have the opportunity that you have right now. You get to leave the routine of life behind and just break free in a new country and a new world. And when the time does come for you to leave Korea, you will be a much richer person because of what you did. Don't give up. Your adventure has only just begun.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Soccer (Football) Games and Clubs in Seoul, South Korea

Here's the question:

I'm moving to Suwon soon and was wondering if there was any teams in the local Seoul leagues who needed players? I'll be living in Suwon but
am used to travelling for at least an hour to play football in Manchester back home, so if there are any teams in the Seoul area I would love to
know.

"Some Dude"

Another sports question, huh? I did cover a little on sports in the Seoul area here, but I didn't mention soccer clubs. There are tons of expat soccer players and a lot of clubs out there. You could take a look at Seoul Saturday Soccer League or Expat-Advisory's list of Korea-based teams, but none of them are as well-organized as the Seoul Sunday Football League. These guys have schedules, tournaments, standings and just about anything else you would want. It's also got a nice forum filled with great information.

Judging by how official looking some of those sites are, I can only assume that they're pretty competitive, so those of you looking for a friendly or casual game might be dissuaded to join. For those of you looking for a more casual pickup game, check out some of these facebook groups. Each one of them are different pickup games....

* Sunday Pickup Games in Seoul
* Monday night games in Seoul
* Tuesday night games in Seoul
* Wednesday night games in Seoul
* Thursday night games in Seoul
* Indoor games

All of the above links and groups are active and play 5-a-side.

I think that should just about cover it for you. There appears to be a pretty dedicate group that goes out there and if, for some reason, you can't join of those teams, I would suggest that you either do as OpenMicah suggested and talk to your school or you could just go out there and see if you can get in on the fun.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Gay in South Korea: A Little Assistance

Here's the question:

Im a 23 year old who just finishing up my degree in National American University and will be moving to a place called Mok-Dong in Seoul. Do you know it? I hope its a nice area with plenty to do and kind people here also.Youve helped me so much with other issues such as weight limits for teachers and visa issues with your blog I was wondering if you could help me with one more. Im kind of looking for a little romance in the 1 year that I plan to stay. Ex-pat, I'd really like to ask you about the gay scene there. Tolerance is not an issue for me (growing up in SD- ugh!) but I know its a very conservative country. Do they have like sodomy laws like in China or Japan? And how like, forward, are Korean guys? cos some parties I went to the Asian guys just hung out in the bathroom. So thats it I wanna have a good time, but I wanna be safe. Whattya say, Ex-Pat?

Thanks a bunch

Jim K

I think I'd like to start this one out with a little excerpt from a Michael Breen article on relationships within the expat community.

"One young North American lady once told me that she and her single Western friends in Seoul felt they were ``living in a gay bar." Neither Korean nor non-Korean men, they complained, seemed interested in them."

Of course, Korea is laughably nowhere close to a gay mecca, but I thought I should frame how many relationships go in the expat community. I wouldn't claim that expats only date Koreans (gay or straight) because it's not true, but it seems like a clear majority of the relationships I see involving (male) expats are with Korean women. The gay expat community, however, is much harder to gauge. It is rare to see gay or lesbian expats openly displaying their relationship on the streets and it is even more rare to see such a thing in an interracial relationship or among gay Korean men or women. As a rule, I must refer you to The Korean's post on homosexuality in Korea. It's great. Not only does he cover some serious issues and make excellent points, but the comment board also offers a wealth of information. It's a little lengthy, but definitely worth the read.

I think being from a state like South Dakota gives you a leg-up in terms of accepting or dealing with intolerance. Maybe I'm wrong about SD, but I can only assume that you're used to a little intolerance. (I'm from Tennessee which constantly proves out conservative and intolerant they can be.) If you were from a more gay-friendly city or state, adjusting might be more of an issue, but I think you should be fine. The gay scene, while not necessarily hosting weekly pride parades, does seem to be thriving given the popular mindset that homosexuality doesn't exist in Korea or can be cured by few visits to the doctor. There are a few popular spots in Seoul with gay clubs, bars and saunas. Itaewon, Hongdae and Jungno is where most of those places can be found. On top of that, you'll be living in Mokdong which is relatively close to all three of those places. My wife and I went to a place on Itaewon's famed "Homo Hill" called "Why Not?" a few months ago and had a lot of fun. While I'm not sure how all places are or how gay Asians party, I can tell you that most of the Koreans there were not hiding in the bathroom. The dance floor was very much alive and no one was being shy.

There's an organization for gay men that's based out of Seoul called "Chingusai" or "Among Friends". They have been operating for over a decade and offer a lot of services and assistance to the community. They've got a message board where people are talking about current issues, events and even arranging meetings. This site (and this one) also offer some assistance for newcomers and it wouldn't hurt to check out this facebook group or even Craigslist.

It looks like you're more interested in the legality and safety of potential relationships rather than where to find it, so let me talk about that. In Korea, same-sex sexual activity is totally legal and there is no mention of sodomy laws anywhere that I can find. Even if there were such laws, I would assume they would be nothing more than blue laws and therefore, nothing to worry about. However, the ROK military takes a different stance as they discharge soldiers for being gay and can even charge the men involved with sexual harassment for such an act. You might also find that a few gay-content websites will be censored, blocked or filtered by the government, but those typically tend to be only Korean-run sites rather than gay-content sites in general. Legally speaking, you'll have no problem and as long as you aren't too obvious or risky, you'll have no problems socially either.

In another email, you mentioned the prevelance of Hepatitis and other STDs which is, of course, a concern for anyone. I couldn't find anything about anything about Hep in particular, but I found this study on AIDS and HIV which seems to be the most current and comprehensive of its kind. There's also a thread about STD's at Daves's that, aside from the usual snarky comments, offers a glimpse into the STD world in Korea. If you're looking for a very detailed, academic and historical look at Korea's sexual past and present, then take a look Choi Hyung-Ki's exhaustive research on the topic. It talks about everything from sexual behavior to STD's and abortion.

I think that you'll find that Korea is more accommodating that you would think. As long as you're up for an adventure, then you should find a pretty solid group out there. There are plenty of gay Koreans and expats for you to find a meaningful relationship and have a lot of fun. The bars and clubs seem to be gaining popularity and always seem to be busy. You'll be just fine.

Update October 23rd, 2009: Korea Times has a write-up on how Social Ostracism Stifles Sexual Minorities. It's an alright article.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment

Halloween Costumes and Lederhosen in South Korea

Here's the question:

Hey,

do you know where I can buy lederhosen in seoul? Or maybe a good seamstress?

thanks in advance,

britt

Awesome. This easily is the best question I have ever gotten. Ever. I'm not too sure what to make of this question. I mean, it's May still, so unless you're really prepping for Halloween, I just can't think of why anyone would need NEW lederhosen while in Korea. Still, I'll try to help...

Of course, I'm not too sure where you could buy lederhosen in Seoul. The only place would be Itaewon and they don't have any Bavarian stores in the area. So, assuming you're not looking for top quality hosen, I think Halloween stores might be your best bet. I personally do not know of any Halloween stores. Most expats here try to be really creative and make their own, but I did find this forum (and this one too) which discusses some options.

From Daves...

There's a store called Halloween near Sadang Station. From exit 14, walk straight out quite a bit more than 50 meters till you get to the part of the sidewalk with the wall along your left side. Continue to the three-way intersection (with the hospital on one corner). Turn left and immediately jink right down the first alley/sidestreet. Halloween (with orange sign) is about 20m down the sidestreet on your right, in the basement.

They also have a website here.

I don't know, but I have a feeling that most of the costume shops are going to be for kids, so if you really want nice lederhosen, your best bet is to go to any seamstress NORTH of the river (Gangnam will be too expensive), bring them a picture, some fabric and maybe even instructions in Korean and see what happens.

Other than that, I would consider buying it from an online vendor and shipping it to Korea. It'll probably save you money and a headache. When I taught kids, they always provided costumes through an online vendor.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Watching American and Canadian Sports in Korea

Here's the question:

I'm an American and a big sports fan. I've been in Seoul for almost two months and haven't been able to see any MLB or NBA games. I'm okay with keeping track of those through ESPN, but I really can't miss football seasons! Go Bills!!! Where can I go? Itaewon?

Kacie

Really? The Bills? Being a Bengals fan, my gut reaction is to make fun of you, but then again, I'm a Bengals fan.

Watching American sports is always a challenge in Korea. If you're a soccer fan and happen to British, then you're in luck. If you're like every other Korean and love Park Ji-Sung and therefore Manchester United, then you're really in luck. Korea Beat sums it up pretty well with their weekly Most Read Naver Articles. However, like so many American and Canadian expats, soccer just doesn't cut it. Sadly, there are not a lot of options for you.

I remember my first year. I was totally gung-ho for watching American football and baseball, but I soon realized that watching them was quite a challenge and sometimes not worth the effort. As I'm sure you know by now, you can catch a few games on some of the sports channels that are featured on basic cable, but unless you're watching Hines Ward or UFC, it won't be live. I can't tell you which channel they might be on as it is differs between regions, but I can at least give you a quick breakdown of a few. Remember, unless a team is or sport has some connection to Korea, these channels will rarely play American sports and in most cases there is no pattern to what they'll show.

• MBC ESPN
• X Sports
• SBS Sports
• Sportsline
• Super Action
  

Aside from that small and disappointing lineup, you can always try to find some bars that play games. From my experience though, most expat-frequented bars will play big games or they'll go to their backup of old hockey games. If you're in Itaewon, then all you'd need to do is ask the owners if they show any games or if they have satellite. Oftentimes, if the bar features American sports they'll be advertising it along with some drink or food special. I know that RMT really tries to show American/Canadian sports as seen in it's online viewing schedule. You could also check out Gekko's, Hooters and Big Rock. Hooters tries to play big games and Big Rock, like RMT, focuses on hockey.

So, your choices for public viewing are limited. However, you always have the internet. That's the best way to insure that you don't miss any big games. I don't need to list online viewing sites since a simple Google search will suffice, but I will add that if you are an American college sports fan, most of those sites won't work. You will need to go to your team or school's sports website and purchase a membership of sort. You might have to wake up at 3am for the game, but to a true sports fan, that's no problem.

I'd say just keep your eyes open and ears to the ground while you're out and you'll most likely discover a few solid places around town to catch the game.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Transgender Community, Clubs and Bars in South Korea

Here's the (different) question:

Is there a large transgender population in South Korea? Are there good transgender bars?

JT

JT, huh? Hmmm, I wish it was JTT as in Jonathan Taylor Thomas because then it would make perfect sense, but then again it might actually be the boy wonder. After all, Vanilla Ice wrote into the Korea Times today, so who knows who's interested in Korea these days.

I should say that I can't tell if you are curious for personal or academic reasons, so I will try to give you as much as I can about a relatively quiet community.

Alright, rather than delving into the nuances of the LGBT culture, I will instead refer you to an excellent write up on homosexuality in Korea by Ask a Korean. As usual, he nails it down pretty well. There's also a book titled, "Gay and Lesbian Asia: Culture, Identity, Community". Pages 65-80 deal with Korea. I think it should cover the basics so I don't have to. Yes, there is a transgender culture here. However, like the gay and lesbian culture, you will find that it's either ignored, denied, pushed to the side or dismissed by the average Korean. Nonetheless, the overall LGBT has been active in recent years and some reports claim that there have been up to 70,000 Koreans who have undergone the transformation since the 1970s and while that number might paint a picture of commonality, it is still very much hidden from public.

There has been one icon of the transgender movement in Korea and her name is "Harisu" who got her name because it sounds like "Hot Issue". You can read about her bio here, a music video here and her influence here.
Now to your second question. I don't know what constitutes a "good" trans bar, but I can at least try to point you to where a few are. First of all, take a look at this page (oddly enough the url says something about friends and badminton). If you scroll down the page you'll find addresses and bar names throughout the country. I also took the liberty to do a google search for you about the well-known Transbar in Itaewon. You can click the links on the search page if you want. I am at work, so no chance there.

I wish I could offer you a bit more information (or perhaps OpenMicah, the worlds strongest expat, could offer you some first-hand insight), but I just don't have a lot on this one. To wrap it up, there is a quiet transgender community here and there are some transgender bars, so I think your curiosity, be it personal or academic, will be satisfied.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Volleyball and Other Sports Facilities in Seoul

Here's the question:

Where's a good place to play volleyball in Seoul?

Joshua

Sports, huh? Not my strong point, but I can help.

While it certainly appears to be a concrete jungle, there are a lot of sports facilities dispersed all around Seoul. You can find a basketball goal or a soccer field at just about every school in town and there are also dozens of non-Hangang parks that offer such facilities. However, it seems that the greatest concentration of sports facilities are located around the Han River in designated riverside green areas called Hangang Riverside Park.




The Hangang parks are hit or miss. Sometimes you can go there and no one will be on the field or court, but other times they might be booked for weeks ahead of time. For volleyball you can head to Gwangnaru, Jamsil, Jamwon, Banpo, Ichon, Yeouido, Yanghwa, Mangwon, Nanji. They all have some sort of facilities that should be okay for what you're looking for. I can't say which one is the best though. Korea hosted the third leg of the Women’s Beach Volleyball World Tour in 2008, so I can only assume that some of the courts are decent. They've invested a lot of dough in it as well.

If you're looking for indoor volleyball, then it might be a little harder. Like many baseball fields and basketball courts, it will require reserving a court for several months and paying a pretty hefty fee. Of course, that fee would be reduced if you got a big group together and split it, but then you have to deal with the issue of getting a big enough group together.

As I said, I'm not the biggest exercises guy, but I don't mind getting out there every once in awhile if there's the promise of a little barbecue and beer afterwards. I've never seen a shortage of places to enjoy the day and get in a little something for your health, so I good luck and happy hunting.

If your in the mood for some other sports and recreation facilities, check out this site.

Contributer and expat extrondinare, OpenMicah says...

For any public school or university teachers out there, one thing I would say is to check with the faculty at your school. Usually public schools have inter-school volleyball leagues some time in the fall, and teachers from one school usually play teachers from another school. I bet the teachers who play on your school volleyball team (especially the men) play occasionally with their buddies somewhere else out side of school and wouldn't mind you coming along.

I also would check with any foreigner or Korean friends you know working for a Korean company. They might actually have a company volleyball team that rents out a court once a week for a few hours. I had a friend working at a company, and all the guys in the office played basketball once a week on a rented court. He invited me and I split the cost with them. With 20 guys, it was only 20,000W a month. It wasn't competitive play or anything, but it was probably the only cheap way to play sports indoors. In the winter, especially.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Camping and Old Pictures of Gyeonggi-do, Korea

Here's the question:

Where can I find old maps of Pyeongtaek, or even southern Gyeonggi-do (1800-1990)? Are there any websites that provide camping areas or information for all of Gyeonggi-do? Any help is appreciated!

Joel

Tricky one here. My source for old Korean pictures varies greatly and there is no set site that I go to. However, I would suggest taking a look at Gusts Of Popular Feeling though. If you click here you can see a few of his photo history's on the Joseon Era. You could also take a look at his Post 1945 Era and Colonial Era pictorials as well. In fact if I were you, I would suggest sending him an email and asking him through his comment section what his source is and maybe he (Matt) could point you in a sound direction. Perhaps stopping by the ROKDrop would yield some good info as well. As I said in the intro, sometimes I don't know the best answer and I know that these guys do.



Of course, you can always spend hours on Flickr and Google, but that's not too reliable.

I can help with the website though. First, take a look at the Gyeonggi-do website and get better acquainted with the whole area. As far as camping goes, you should look at the "Natural Wonders" section found on the "Tourism" page and read through each profile. I ran through the list and saw a handful that offered camping or some sort of mountain lodging. The best way to do it would be find the location you want to go, and then do some detailed research about how to get there and what they offer at each destination.

Interesting question.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Namyangju, South Korea: Nature Lovers Paradise

Here's the question (or request in this case):

I'm interested in finding out where things [in Namyangju] are (cool must see sites..artifacts...historic locations...traditional South Korean
outfits.....western foods....other than junk food....Mcdonalds....maybe even a
supermarket). I'm trying find my way around.....and figure out who the potential
good friends are.

Namyangju is located just northeast of Seoul in Gyeonggi province. It's also conveniently nestled right next to Guri which is pleasant city full of great things to do, but let me focus on Namyangju.

Namyangju is pretty large and since I don't know where in the city you live , I'm going to have to use the marker that Google Earth provided. As you can see you're pretty far outside Seoul, but close enough that traveling to the city on a weekend wouldn't be a big deal at all. It's only 30 minutes to Dogok station. That being said, there's plenty to do and see in your area that traveling to Seoul isn't even necessary outside of the occasional urge for non-Western international food.

As I often do, let's start with nature in your area and I'd like to point out that you picked a wonderful area for such escapes. The most famous recreation area in Namyangju is the Natural Recreation Forest at Mountain Chungryeong. It's full of great landscape, dense forests and beautiful valleys. The park also has forestry fields, sports facilities, pools, camping grounds, nature observation areas, and is a great place for both relaxing family vacations or a mountain hike. If you're into that sort of thing and want to book a cabin or reserve a camping ground, call 031-592-0681. I called them and found an English speaker there as well.

Gwangneung Forest is also located in the area. This place is the best natural forest in Korea because of its "treasury of mountains and forests, as well as a fascinating mix of animals and plant species. The Gwangneung forest, has a total of 841 different sorts of plants settling in the forest with 75 families and 244 species of vertebrates which include 19 kinds designated as the precious natural treasure and 22 kinds designated as the rare animal. Among all of the birds living in the forest, the most famous is the Korean redheaded woodpecker."


I called them at (031)540-1114, but did not find any English speakers there. Also, they appear to be closed on Sundays. Still, it looks nice.

You can also check out Mt. Chuknyeongsan Recreation Forest.

Besides those spots there's also a ton of other neat places are sure to keep you busy for many, many weekends. You've got Mt. Cheonmasan, Mt.Ungilsan [Sujongsa Temple] and Mt. Suraksan for some hiking. There's Bukhangang River where you can hike, pincic and do some water skiing. There's also an annual festival that features crafts, music and other cultural festivities.

While on the topic of skiing, you can hit the slopes in the winter months at Mt.Cheonmasan Ski Resort and Seoul Resort. For rental fees, check this out.

The major tourist attractions are Gwangreung Royal Tomb, Hongreung Royal Tomb, Yureung Royal Tomb, Sareung Royal Tomb, Paldang Resort Complex, Studio Complex, Bamseomdo Island, and Moran Art Gallery. You can also check out the Mongolian Cultural Village.

For all other tourism related info check out Gyeonggi's tourist site, Namyangju's site and even Guri's site. I'd spend some serious time on the Namjangju site though. It's loaded with solid info. In case I forgot anything, take a peek at this site as well.

Now, on to the other stuff...western niceties. One of the only challenges you'll face living outside of Seoul might be the inconvenience of getting food that you want when you want it. As you get used to Korean food, you'll slowly assimilate and your taste buds will change, but when you're really hungry, sometimes Korean food just doesn't cut it.

So, what are your options? Let's start with Costco. Depending on your location in Namyangju, there is a Costco relatively close to you. Here's a bigger picture.



You'll have to pay 35,000 won for a one year membership and then you'll be fine on at least some aspects of western cuisine at home. For restaurants, I would take a look here. There seems to be a pretty good amount of eateries for you. There appears to be one western bar called Oddysee Bar. I don't know anything about it though.

As far as making good friends, I would suggest you get out there and start traveling. Check into Adventure Korea. They're always up to something.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Concerts, Shows and Live Music in Korea

Click here for a complete list of resources for music on the Korean peninsula.

Here's the question:

Hey, ive been in korea for 2 months now and havent been able to find a website that lists concerts in the country. Do you know any good links?

Excellent question and one that I was very frustrated with when I first arrived. Most of your favorite bands who happen to be doing an Asian tour will likely skip over Korea or will play at odd times. I remember when Prodigy came here a couple years ago and their set time was supposed to begin at 3pm on Thursday. It's unfortunate, but the market is just not big enough to attract most musicians. The music scene in Korea is awashed with very carefully manufactured pop music, so easy access to online resources and concert posters for everything else is something that is a little harder to come across. However, there are a few solid resources.

Depending on your musical preferences, there should be something out there for you. For instance 02 Pro lists big names of DJs coming to Seoul. The artists will more than likely be playing at popular clubs in the area, so you can always visit their websites as well. However, if you're looking to see some live tunes or are in search of a more diverse array of music, you'll probably need to head to Hongdae. There, you can find the occasional concert poster or some sort of flier detailing venue, time and artist info.

You can also check out Broke In Korea for "punk, ska, oi and other underground music".

I like to use Korea Gig Guide for the most part though. It's easily the best Korean gig site because it not only lists international acts, but it also lists good expat bands and non-K-pop Korean bands. There's also of forum (although a little weak) and map of venue locations in Hongdae for your convenience.



Most of the shows listed on the site are in Hongdae and quite a few genres are represented. You'll find punk, rock, metal, hip-hop, trance and house. For the most part, however, you will not find many jambands making the trip to Korea. I mention that because it happens to be my preference, but every time I check Jambase, it yields nothing for Korea. As frustrating as it might be, Japan seems to attract loads of bands, so for the really dedicated followers, a trip to Japan might be worth it. And honestly, Asia just isn't a big destination for Western acts, so if you're a dedicated music fan, be prepared to try some new sounds or get ready for a big break from live music.

I should mention that Korea does have a couple annual events that always attract Western acts. The World DJ Festival in Nanji-do, Seoul takes place every year in early May. This is a great show because it's an all-weekend thing and there is camping at Nanji campgrounds. Click here, here, here, here and here for some videos.

The other major Western music festival is The Pentaport Rock Festival (Wiki here) in Incheon. The original aim of the festival was to attract major names that had just finished playing at the extremely popular Fuji Rock Festival to Korea, but have had limited success.(My favorite band, Umphrey's Mcgee, played in 2006 and Disco Biscuits are playing this year.) In fact, each year produces less and less quality international artists. 2009's lineup has not be released yet, but I'm not expecting much. Still, it's a big festival, a lot of fun and some people really love it.

While Korea might seem like a black hole for international acts, it's not. There have been some major acts perform here (Eric Clapton, Oasis, Beyonce, Jay Z, etc...), but in the end, it's a country where there are very little counter-culture elements and yet they still manage to have a full line-up of relatively unknown bands and musicians headlining every night. It might take a little while to get adjusted, but there's never a shortage of tunes to be heard.

And plus, Korea has Jung Sungha. He's amazing and has over 53,000,000 views on youtube. That's pretty good for an 11 year old.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Bundang, South Korea: Living and Thriving

Here's the question:

I am arriving in Bundang a week from tomorrow and would like a little more information on the city before I get there. From the research I have conducted myself, it looks like the perfect place for me, but I would love to hear more about it, so I can share the info with my friends and family.

Thank you,
Heather

When moving to a suburb of Seoul, I always think it's smart to take a look at where you might be living in relation to the city, so let's start there.

Here's a google map. (Click here for an interactive road map)

As you can see, it's southeast of Seoul. It's also connected to Gangnam-gu via the Bundang Line. Aside from the newer and constantly-expanding subway line, there are buses that conveniently service the area as well. Expect both to take around 20-30 min to get into Seoul.

Also, the Airport Limousine can be found near Seohyeon and Ori Stations. From there you can get a ride to Incheon Airport for about 12,000 won.

The subway closest to your school appears to be Seohyeon Station.



For Seoul nightlife (restaurants, bars/clubs, shopping) you can get from Seohyeon to Gangnam Station in 40 min; Itaewon in 66 min; Apgujeong in 51 min; and Hongdae in 74 min. If you want to check out transportation all over Korea, then take a look at this Korea Sparkling page or if you want to play with Seoul subway travel times then click here. For a quick list of restaurants, shopping and night spots you can visit Seoul Style.

Of course, you'll be living in Bundang, so let's take a look at what it has to offer. Like Ilsan, it's a well-planned city. Parks, schools, malls, restaurants, golf courses and modern buildings have been woven together to make a clean, safe and attractive city.


I always like to point out parks in the area and Bundang has plenty of small and big ones. Most would say that Bundang Central Park is the nicest and I would probably agree. It's got the basics like most Korean parks: a pond, some sports fields or courts, a place to exercise and some trees. It also has a bungee jumping site. It's a great place to go on a Saturday afternoon with friends. If you're into a biking or walking, try taking a little cruise next to the Tancheon tributary. There are also five water parks along the Tancheon if you're into that. If you're the really adventurous type, you can follow it all the way to Yongin and check out their folk village. If you're into nature or hiking, then take a look at this site to get some ideas. I would seriously recommend several weekend day-hikes. The other parks are smaller, but all of them offer some sort of break from the concrete jungles that envelop the city.

As I mentioned in the post about Ilsan, it's always nice to know where you can get some western food at restaurants, but having a strong base of western flavors and groceries at home is always crucial. Here's a map with the closest Costco from your school. It would take about 25 - 30 min on a bus.



Most of the dining action and a wide variety of drinking establishments can be found around every subway station. Seohyeon and Jeongja stations are good places to start, with the majority of "Western Bars" being at Seohyeon station in the shopping corridors directly outside of Samsung Plaza's two main entrances. You can check out Monkey Beach, Dublin Bar, and Lose Control for starters, but there are plenty more dives in the area. You're also pretty close to a major Korean theme park, Everland, which in located in Yongin.

Overall, you can expect to find a nice, cozy city full of moderately wealthy Koreans and a tight-knit expat community. Like most people, you'll be totally happy in Bundang. I have been to Bundang several times and have never had a bad time. My wife's family lives down there as well and am always up for a quick cruise south. Enjoy!

If you want to see more pictures of Bundang click here and here or for a ton of Bundang-related blogs, click here.

If anybody has any questions, just send me an email at asktheexpat@yahoo.com or leave a comment.

Seoul or Suburb?

One of the first challenges that prospective teachers and expats have is choosing their location. Should they head to Seoul or maybe just one of its suburbs? What about Busan or Daegu? Are the smaller towns worth it or even manageable? All of these concerns are very valid and let me offer some advice.

Seoul is the center of modern Korea. For the new expat, it's one of the easiest places to assimilate as it is full of Western niceties and conveniences. That said, it should be noted that the other cities are full of wonderful quirks and charm. While all of the cities are Korean, each offers a unique Korean experience.

Still, you need to know what you want and what awaits you when you arrive on the peninsula.

Seoul or Suburb?

This is one of the threads that has been going on over at the ESL Teachers group site.

Are the suburbs of Seoul cheaper than Seoul itself? I'm just looking for a city that is close enough to Seoul where I can be there in 30 min or under...

First of all, let's identify the major suburbs of Seoul, most of which are in Gyeonggi province.

Suwon
Ansan
Anyang
Bucheon
Bundang
Gimpo
Goyang
Guri
Gwacheon
Gwangmyeong
Hanam
Namyangju
Paju
Seongnam
Siheung
Uijeongbu
Uiwang
Yangju
Yongin

All of these places are connected to Seoul by either a train or bus and usually takes anywhere from fifteen minutes to an hour to get to the city, but that doesn't mean you will always be traveling to the city. Most of the suburbs of Seoul have been affected by the megalopolis and have experienced mini-booms that brought many of the big-city conveniences to each town.

Suwon seems to be the most popular suburb within the expat community. It's close to Seoul (45 min), has great public transportation and is noticeably cleaner than the capitol.

The other suburb cities are all very nice and I can research them for you if you'd like.

Is Seoul more expensive than the suburbs?

Some people are under the impression that Seoul, like most big cities, is very expensive. That's partly true. Seoul can be more expensive (housing, shopping, etc...), but isn't necessarily that way. It all depends on what you spend your money on. If you like to drink at bars and clubs, then it most certainly will cost you more. However, if you like to drink at a restaurant or hof, then your bill will be identical. The same goes for groceries. If you like organics then you're going to spend more. Your lifestyle will dictate your expenses.

The only difference is that in a suburb, there are less things to be tempted by. For example, I used to live by a Subway (the sandwich shop) and would eat there a couple times a week. I really appreciated its convenience when I first arrived here, but it was pricey. I was dropping over 20 bucks a week at Subway just because it was there. If it wasn't, I'm sure I would have been eating some Korean food which, of course, is much cheaper.

One more example: I used to live in Daechi-dong which is a predominately residential area in Gangnam-gu. It was a great area to live in. It was quiet, comfortable and close to Coex. Even though it was a residential area with only one bar, I managed to spend loads of money on booze. Now, I live on the main street in Gangnam and am totally surrounded by bars and restaurants, yet I only spend a fraction of what I used to. The bottom line is that the cost is not that different and if you are concerned about money then altering your behavior is more efficient than trying to flee to the suburbs.

What about food?

While it might not seem like it's that big of a deal at first, after awhile you will miss Western food and you will seek it out. This is easy in Seoul, but can be a little tricky in the suburbs. It's there, but chances are that a fast-food chain or chicken hof might be all you come up with.

Is Seoul too crowded?

Yes. Seoul is way too crowded, but than again, all of Gyeonggi is crowded. Over 10,000,000 people live in the province and if you add Seoul in there, you've got over 24,000,000 million people living essentially shoulder to shoulder. If you don't like crowds, I would suggest you stay about from Seoul.

In the end, it's all about preference. Seoul has a lot of cultural icons and events to offer, but that doesn't mean the other cities don't have anything unique or worthwhile. If you prefer a slightly slower lifestyle, then take a look at the suburbs. They are close to mountains, trains and boast cleaner air and streets. You might encounter a few issues assimilating, but you're so close to the city that most problems can be rectified without much stress.

Would I recommend a suburb?

Yes.